Sunday, January 29, 2012

Mountain Magic - Hidden Gems - The Jarrett House - Dillsboro, NC

The Jarrett House - Dillsboro, North Carolina
Along the action-packed Highway 441 corridor that winds its way through the North Georgia Mountains into North Carolina and ultimately into The Great Smoky Mountain National Park, exists a tiny respite from tourist pursuits, although tourism is its very lifeblood. But, its compact size notwithstanding, Dillsboro, North Carolina - nestled deep in the mountains where Georgia, Tennessee and Western North Carolina converge - has managed to maintain its laid-back, tucked-away vibe while welcoming thousands of folks who flock to this intimate mountain village to ride the Great Smoky Mountain Railway or dine at The Jarrett House. Here, travelers can take a break from the hectic, the been-there-done-that and the mundane. Because, Dillsboro is anything but ordinary.
As hidden away as it feels, Dillsboro is actually at the epicenter of one of Western North Carolina's most vibrant tourist thoroughfares. Only a scant few mlies from Bryson City, Cherokee, and Asheville, Dillsboro offers the convenience  of a hub-and-spoke location from which to sample the surrounding region. And, offering visitors comfortable lodging and dining since 1884 is the village's crown jewel, The Jarrett House.
Owned and operated since 1975 by the Hartbarger family - Jim, Jean, sons Scott and Buzz and their wives, Mary and Sharon, The Jarrett House is not unlike a "home away from home." Its wide, welcoming street-level verandah is the perfect perch for visitors who wait to be seated for lunch and dinner each day. Operating on an annual schedule that sees the inn opening Good Friday and operating weekends until the first of May and then closing for the season after the second weekend in December, this staple of Dillsboro hospitality is not to be missed.
We checked into The Jarrett House and checked out our charming quarters, beautifully furnished with antiques and offering easy access to the second-story verandah, where oversized rocking chairs invited us to relax and drink in the crisp, clear mountain air. This also proved an unexpectedly perfect place to meet and converse with fellow travelers, one of whom was breaking up a long drive from Ohio to Florida.
Easily "stroll-able" (the entire town is comprised of just a few blocks), and delightfully secluded, Dillsboro evokes the feel of a smaller Mayberry. Townfolks porch-sit on a breezy summer afternoon, watching the tourists meander in and out of the abundance of shops that dot the two main streets running through town. Everything from gorgeous housewares to mountain crafts to gourmet goodies and then some abound!
Just across the way is the station for the Great Smoky Mountain Railway, which offers outings to nearby Bryson City as well as other excursions depending on the season.
Although Dillsboro seems, in many ways, a village far removed from the modern-day rat race, don't be deceived because not five minutes down the road rests the county seat and big town of Sylva, complete with all  the more contemporary (nee' "chain") shopping and dining amenities, including the requisite Super Wally-World (Walmart) for any forgotten necessities. A sidenote about Sylva is that their downtown Main Street is somewhat akin to stepping into a time-warp and beiing transported back to the day when small-town downtowns reigned supreme. It was exciting to see a robust mix of locally-owned, mom-and-pop retail in abundance and seemingly thriving.
Vinegar Pie - A Jarrett House Specialty!
As we strolled back to the Jarrett House, we were surprised (but shouldn't have been) to see a long line formed from the front door, down the porch steps and onto the sidewalk. This crowd was waiting for the dining room to open for dinner. Renowned for their country ham and a dessert concoction whose name is wince-inducing, but heavenly tasting called Vinegar Pie, the Jarrett House packs in the crowds for lunch and dinner. A delicious array of home-cooking is on the menu, so plan on putting a Jarrett House meal on your "must-do" list. The entrees are hearty and accompanied by a smorgasbord of side dishes reminiscent of Sunday dinner at grandma's and served up family-style. For overnight guests, breakfast is also included and is simpler fare, but adequate.
Just eighteen miles from Bryson City, NC, 15 miles from Cherokee, NC and an easy drive to Helen, GA and the Smoky Mountain towns of Gatlinburg, Pigeon Forge and Sevierville, TN, Dillsboro is a GREAT stop-over or even better headquarters for hub-and-spoke touring!

Friday, January 27, 2012

Daytrip Fun - Think Off-The-Beaten-Path!

Never mind that this Middle-Tennessee winter has been the mildest in years, the post-holiday period of dormancy known as January can inflict cabin fever on the heartiest of homebodies. And, when hibernation takes "stir crazy" to a whole new level, sometimes the only remedy is a road trip! More often than not, a simple day away can work wonders for the psyche!
In more than 25 years of developing itineraries for travel groups, I have garnered a reputation as something akin to Queen of Off-The-Beaten-Path. Early in my career, it was a random trip to the Nashville Flea Market where I stumbled upon a flier describing the tiny hamlet of Glendale, Kentucky that started me down the road less traveled. Capitalizing on the growing - and sustained - popularity of Mystery Trips among the groups I serve, I  reasoned long ago that if someone was going to pay good money to show up and not have a clue where they were going, then it was encumbent on me to make sure they got more than their money's worth.
This fondness for the offbeat and unique is not lost on my network of road-running girlfriends. When I can't stay chained to my office chair even five more minutes and need a break, I have only to pick up the phone and invoke 'road trip' and whichever of them signs on knows they are in for more than the mundane "lunch and shopping "experience.
The latest of these ventures came barely a week into the New Year as three of us struck out for nearby Leipers Fork, Tennessee - a precious gem of a village nestled obscurely along scenic Old Hillsboro Pike. Located a mere eight miles - yet a world away - from wildly-popular Franklin's historic downtown district, itself  a place always teeming with visitors, Leipers Fork (www.leipersforkvillage.com) welcomes visitors with a laid-back sophistication not to mention impressive galleries, shopping and dining.
With most of the town's retail establishments open Wednesday through Sunday (though some will open by appointment if you call ahead), we were lucky to find most everything open, including the mesmerizing Serenite' Maison, owner-designer Alex Cirimelli's serendipitous collection of antiques, French-flavored gifts and irresistible jewelry of her own designs. We lingered in the  main gallery of this sprawling clapboard cottage, prowling through her tempting assortment of candles, frames, stationery, and fleur-de-lis motifed items plus another room filled with fabulous lotions, toiletries and antique linens.
Famished from all the decision-making, we departed for lunch across the ribbon of two-laned Old Hillsboro Road, which doubles as the village's Main Street to another roadside cottage. This one housed the Twisted Fork Cafe, a deli-style bistro, as well as S'weet, a tempting emporium specializing in fine chocolate, novelty candy and gift baskets. Making our luncheon selections from an extensive menu of healthy salads, sandwiches and wraps, we settled ourselves in the welcoming dining room furnished with an eclectic assortment of shabby-chic tables and chairs and admired the extensive collection of art adorning the walls.
Not two doors east of the Twisted Fork lies a longtime Leipers Fork dining attraction called Puckett's Grocery (www.puckettsgrocery.com). For nearly fifty years, this unassuming market served as a combined grocery store and gathering place for communities in rural Williamson County and has long attracted an eclectic clientele of farmers, businessmen and country music artists who drop by for a "meat and three" style lunch. Andy Marshall purchased the family-owned store in 1998 and has kept it true to its roots, much to the delight of hordes of diners who frequent this village centerpiece. Their live music and dinner  event every Friday and Saturday night year-round has grown in popularity since Marshall launched it in 2002 and routinely draws a big crowd.
Revived and back in action, we strolled down the road to Linda "Neena" Beecham's cottage. Blending a collection of antiques and primitives on one side of the house known as Neena's Primitives & Antiques under the same roof with trendy jewelry, handbags, gourmet coffees and teas on the side known as Wild Iris Boutique, Beecham pulls it all off seamlessly and charmingly. We wandered through the cottage's rooms, creatively and appealingly stocked. Beecham's engaging and friendly style invited conversation and she readily pointed us in the direction of even more treasures.
Zig-zagging our way back across the road, we found our way into the warm and inviting Leipers Creek Gallery. It's spacious rooms punctuated with visually stunning architectural accents serve as a fitting showcase for the displayed works of regional artists. Casual elegance beckons visitors to stay awhile and just soak up the surroundings. During warmer months, a gazebo and green space behind the gallery provide the perfect setting for casual concerts and picnics.
Each year, a volunteer community association comprised of village residents devises a schedule of events ranging from an annual Chili Cook-Off in October to a wine-and-cheese event dubbed "Cork in the Fork" to a community Christmas Parade. This year's schedule is in the process of being updated and posted to the village website under the Events link.
For a dreary January Thursday, the meandering and noshing and conversation and discoveries uncovered in this inconspicuous, yet altogether captivating, little "wide spot in the road" succeeded in sending us back to our respective grinds refreshed and ready to forge ahead into the new year.